Boutique Bordeaux Blend at a Great Spot Right Now

Today’s Story: Kapcsándy Family Winery

I wrote about Kapcsándy way back in February, 2020 when I reviewed the 2014 Estate Cuvée, so I figured it’s a good time to check back in and try an older vintage.

Kapcsándy Family Winery was established by Lou Kapcsándy and is a small, family owned and operated estate in Yountville of the Napa Valley. An immigrant from Hungary, Lou arrived in the United States in 1956 and worked as a chemical engineer and manufacturer in the Bay Area of California and Seattle. Wine became a focal point for Lou during his successful career thanks to colleagues in the wine business, however his desire to establish his own winery one day came after a visit to Château Leoville Las Cases with his wife Bobbie in 1998. With their son Louis Jr., Lou and Bobbie started searching for property in the Napa Valley when they stumbled upon the 20 acre State Lane Vineyard in Yountville which had been destroyed the previous year by phylloxera. In May 2000, the Kapcsándy family closed on this historic property (it was the source of fruit for Beringer’s Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon) and embarked on massive replanting of the vineyards. They planted the main Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, though also planted several acres to Hungarian Furmint. When the winery was completed in 2005, Lou’s vision was finally realized and both he and Louis Jr. remain highly involved today.

Kapcsándy wines are inspired by Bordeaux both in terms of vineyard management and winemaking style, resulting in lower-alcohol wines made from 100% estate-grown fruit. With both Lou and Louis Jr. active in the vineyards and estate management everyday, Kapcsándy practices sustainable farming with great appreciation for their soil and the environment. The family constructed nesting boxes, perch poles, and songbird houses to avoid the use of chemicals for pest control, and they also add compost to the vineyards and natural fertilizers to supply bacteria, photo nutrients, and trace elements which prove beneficial for vine growth. Further, Kapcsándy plants cover crops between the vines to prevent erosion and encourage beneficial insects to inhabit the vineyards and enhance this natural ecosystem. For more, check out the Kapcsándy website here.

Today’s Wine: 2005 Estate Cuvée

56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc; 14.1% ABV

The 2005 Estate Cuvée is opaque deep ruby in color, still quite youthful. I decanted this for about 90 minutes and drank it over the following two hours, which really helps showcase the complexity of the bottling. The nose emits aromas of blackberry, crème de cassis, black raspberry, plum, cigar box, scorched earth, graphite, menthol, chocolate, clove, and coffee. Meanwhile on the palate I get notes of blackcurrant, blueberry, black cherry, black raspberry, anise, tobacco, eucalyptus, mocha, slate, iron, and cedar. This is medium- to full-bodied with medium (+) acidity, medium tannins, and a long finish. Drinks very much like Bordeaux, with at least 5 more years of prime drinking.

Price: $150 (I paid $95 on sale). I think $150 is a pretty fair price for this bottling with the amount of age on it, particularly given how complex and elegant it is. Though Kapcsándy can be difficult to find, I think this entry level is worth trying. Finding it on sale sub-$100 is a steal.