Clone 6 Showdown

Today’s Story: Beaulieu Vineyard

Beaulieu Vineyard is one of the most historic wineries in Napa Valley, founded in 1900 by Georges de Latour and his wife Fernande. Located in the Rutherford AVA, BV got its name from Fernande when she first saw the property and said it was a “beautiful place,” or “beau lieu.” Georges de Latour sold his successful cream of tartar business shortly thereafter and the couple purchased 4 acres with the intent of producing wines that could stand up to their native France. When they began planting, de Latour brought in Phylloxera-resistant rootstock from Europe in order to buck the trend of a California wine industry in trouble.

Though I have written about several wineries with origins in the late 1800s or early 1900s, BV is different in that unlike many of their neighbors they not only survived Prohibition but thrived during Prohibition. How? BV started selling sacramental wine to the Catholic Church and saw their business increase by four times while those around them shuttered their wineries. Once Prohibition ended, however, the story becomes more “traditional” Napa with de Latour focusing on how to create the best wines from his land by instituting updated farming and winemaking techniques. In an effort to raise his status higher, de Latour traveled to his native France to meet André Tchelistcheff, a world-renowned viticulturist and enologist, who championed continuous innovation. It was André who, upon tasting the 1936 vintage of BV’s Private Reserve wine, encouraged de Latour to bottle their flagship wine. André would become BV’s winemaker, a role he would maintain for over 30 years. In 1940 BV released their first Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine still in production today.

BV has come a very long way from the initial 4 acre plot in 1900. BV currently operates on roughly 1,100 acres of estate vineyards, broken down into different “Ranch” designations. Ranch 1 (79 planted acres) came along in 1903, Ranch 2 (85 planted acres) in 1910, Ranch 3 in 1933 after the repeal of Prohibition, and so on. One of the cool features of BV’s winemaking technique is that each small vineyard lot stays separated throughout the entire process (not an easy feat with their vast holdings). During winemaking, each wine ferments such that the best expression of the fruit results. For instance, the white wines are cold-fermented to display a bright, vibrant character while the red wines are cold-soaked to showcase optimal color, flavor, and tannin. The reds are then fermented in small barrels and aged in oak varying in age, level of toast, and type.

For more on Beaulieu Vineyard’s history, portfolio of wines, or winemaking processes check out the website here, a source of much of the information above.

If you’d like to revisit some of the notes I wrote about BV’s wines before, I previously wrote about the 2014 Tapestry Reserve, 2010 Maestro Collection Ranch No. 1 Red Blend, and 2008 Clone 6.

Today’s 1st Wine: 2005 Clone 6

100% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14.4% ABV

The 2005 BV Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon is opaque deep ruby in color, showing no signs of its age. After an hour in the decanter, I get aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, violet, cigar box, forest floor, black truffle, dried green herbs, a hint of green bell pepper, and slate. The palate showcases notes of blackberry, plum, redcurrant, black cherry, anise, tobacco, mushroom, black pepper, stony mineral, coffee, and dried cedar. This is full-bodied with high acidity, velvety medium tannins, and a long finish.

Price: $150 from the winery in 2015. I think this is a very fair price for this Cabernet Sauvignon, granted it is nearly impossible to find these in the marketplace nowadays. This is a very refined, elegant, and complex bottling that is drinking exceptionally well right now.

Today’s 2nd Wine: 2007 Clone 6

100% Cabernet Sauvignon; 15% ABV

The 2007 BV Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon is also opaque deep ruby in color, still very youthful in appearance. Given some time to open up, the nose showcases aromas of crème de cassis, blackberry, plum, black licorice, sweet tobacco, damp earth, wet gravel,  green herbs, and mild baking spice. The palate, meanwhile, displays notes of blackberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, tobacco, anise, green pepper, clove, coffee grounds, chocolate, and charred oak. This is full-bodied with medium (+) acidity, integrated medium (-) tannins, and a long finish.

Price: $150 from the winery in 2015. Especially next to the 2005 vintage, the pricing for this 2007 vintage seems a little steep. The wine is more of the people-pleasing type and the higher ABV gives the fruit character more of a jammy appeal. Nonetheless, this is just as difficult to find in the marketplace.

The Winner Is…

While both delicious wines, the 2005 takes the cake in this showing. The lower alcohol is easily apparent, and coupled with an extra two years of bottle age provides for a much more refined, elegant, and complex wine. The 2005 is also showing more of the tertiary notes I love in my Cabs.