Chardonnay off the Beaten Path

Today’s Story: Jean Bourdy

Jean Bourdy is a historic family-owned estate dating to 1475 in the Jura region of France. Today under guidance of the family’s 15th generation and brothers Jean-Phillipe and Jean-François Bourdy, the family domaine consists of ten hectares (25 acres) planted to Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Poulsard, Chardonnay, and Savagnin. Winemaking here is incredibly traditional, beginning in the vineyards where the Bourdy brothers practice biodynamic viticulture using only cow manure as fertilizer and whey or flower teas for disease control. All wines ferment naturally with indigenous yeasts in old oak vats, then they age in old oak barrels and foudres that are at times 80 years old themselves. Wines are only topped up once and sulfur additions either never occur or only in very, very small doses, so the wines oxidize slowly in the very cold and damp cellars while adding complexity. The wines age out for several years before release, however the Bourdy brothers hold back some wine each vintage and today command an incredible library with wines going back to the 19th century.

Today’s Wine: 2016 Côtes du Jura Blanc

100% Chardonnay; 12.5% ABV

The 2016 Côtes du Jura Blanc is medium to deep gold in color and transparent. Per the suggestion on the back label, I opened this four hours before serving but did not decant it. The aromas are of pronounced intensity, with the nose showcasing notes of yellow apple, golden pear, grilled pineapple, honey, sweet tart dust, chalk, freshly baked bread, almond, and charred oak. Meanwhile the flavors are of medium (+) intensity and the palate displays notes of baked yellow apple, peach, dried apricot, dried green herbs, white mushroom, wet stone, almond, toast, and sea salt. This dry white is medium-bodied with high acidity, medium alcohol, and a medium (+) length finish.

Price: $30. For me, I think this is a great value though it will be a very different and “interesting” Chardonnay for what many will likely expect or be used to. The intensity, complexity, and balance are already great and this has the structure to go the distance. If you are unfamiliar with the wines of Jura and want to try something new, give this one a try.